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Messages - memitus

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76
After last repair...




Landing gear legs, landing gear cover, flaps....



Ready!!, I start painting camouflage.......




Gunze's Gloss White


For Vichy's markings, I used Humbrol 154 Insignia Yellow......





I left drying 7 days Humbrol paint, then you can use oil paint safely....

To align red strips, I use Kotobukiya rulers, cowling job was done using my "eagle sight" (A joke, I use a ruler).......








MIG Productions' Liquid Masking is one of the best for me, it dries quickly on the model (without damage your painting job) and not into the bottle.




Tamiya's acrilic flat red XF-7 did the job!!












After removing, all masks...........the result......











77
Aircraft Modeling / Re: Vous parlez italien? or Si parla francese?
« on: August 03, 2012, 09:42:13 PM »
After drying.........

I found this gap (in the fuselage belly) and a hole in the rudder :-eek (I was sure all was ok, but these surprises appear). Also, some "sanding failures" were found. So, I polished them, and I used Mr. Surface 500 and Tamiya Putty to correct gap problems













Using a #3200 polishing pad, you can see all changes what I did.......
I add stainless steel tubing to replace plastic pitot tube part (I don't like it)










Stop the press!! One more fitting problem appeared on preshading process......


Same process, sanding, polishing and more Surface primer........



78
Dear mates,

I have this Dewoitine D.520 from Tamiya on the workbench. It is a very nice kit, good fit, not too much parts. I built it out of the box, no aftermarket at all. Target to get, I want to practice some painting techniques as are doing in Europe and Australia (Chris Wauchop's indeed). Later, I will apply these on my P-39K project........

Here, it was on last part of building process...




Profile is from Aeromaster Decals, I found it very interesting.......




As decal instructions sheet indicates, this a/c was in italian service. All French insignias (including Vichy's yellow and red stripes) were over painted, rudder carried Savoy cross. I will use Model Master colors to replicate camouflage as same painting process was done. Also, I use Gunze Sangyo and Humbrol paints for bands and strips........

Well, some details tring to end building process...

I applied Mr. Surfacer 500 with a round brush, then I remove in an easy way the excess of it with Q-tip (cotton swaps) and ethylic alcohol. It doesn't damage plastic surface.




To paint cockpit interior, I use Model Master 1717 Dark Sea Blue (F.S.35042), this is a closer tone that I found....


Windscreen on place, I mask it with 3M's Scotch Magic tape (all clear parts)

Tamiya's Surface Primer helps a lot, it is possible to fill all sand scratches. I decant it from spray can to bottle jar, then I airbrushed entire model...



I left drying per two days........

79
Gentlemen,

Thanks for your comments. This is one of those projects with a lot of things to do, but I am enjoying!!

Nico,

It is a fact, I glued transparent strut to show this problem on the kit. I will ballast the nose, I won't open guns compartment, because as No.1 says, it loses streamline and in this case, Donald nose art would not have a good look!!

I wait to continue today with more here...........

See you!!

80
One aspect what I want to give to modellers (and judges) on the exhibitions and contests, is another P-39 built as it (straight from the box). So, I'll be publishing some photos to show modification and details in my P-39K's Donald Duck.













You can find and see that there are several parts to align, gaps to fill, but basically has a good shape. However, I checked panel lines on the wings and fuselage and I’ll have to erase, fill in and re-scribe in correct place. For this task, I´ve studied a lot of photos in walk around. As I said it before, there are two different plans (one is found it in P-39’s AJ Press and other on Mushroom’s), but no any is correct. I check them vs. pictures to compare dimensions (proportions)

Going to I am telling, I found a photo in very high resolution and I did some trace lines to correct panel lines on wings…..
As it……..

I marked panel lines and covers in thin gray lines, red are for aileron and dash line to realize cover panel (between fuselage-wing)

For this, I drew panel lines on my “grey” P-39 to watch the difference……

Then, I did again the same to scribe new panel lines on starboard wing….

First, I sanded off entire surface……



Curiously, wings have engraved panel lines according wing spare. They are “too deep” for scale, so I filled in after I scribed……..

After that, I did same for port wing...............
Now, I’ll remove flaps, ailerons and wheel wells…….but after cut them off, I’ll show an idea to help “keeping the shape” of wing……….

Well, all comments are welcome……

81
Aircraft Modeling / Re: March Group Build> Spitfire and Seafire
« on: July 27, 2012, 09:38:13 PM »
No.1

Interesting, I didn't know about real Ocean Grey tint.....

Thanks to share

82
Warplane Art / Re: Bf109G
« on: July 16, 2012, 08:05:36 PM »
Hi mates,

I was wondering the same Second Air Force, but two things that confirm a -G4 version is fixed tail wheel with dust cover, and wheel well faired over. G2 version has retractable tail wheel system.
So, I think G4 is the subject, but we wait for more comments about it!!

83
Warplane Art / Re: Bf109G
« on: July 16, 2012, 01:08:16 AM »
No.1

I found this in my Mushroom's Bf-109G copy. As I see it is a Bf-109G4/R4 version, with external 300 liters tanks (underwing) and one Rb50/30 Camera. One thing I realize it is tailwheel cover in -G4 version, I don't see change on this in photo reference that you have. In your profile it is removed, so I don't know if you want to make this change.

Here, what I have..





I hope helps you......

84
Warplane Art / Re: Bf109G
« on: July 15, 2012, 10:47:17 PM »
No.1

Great artwork job!! I see a interesting color combination in this machine. I like this kind of camouflage, so it you don't have any problem, I will do it soon. Not, right now, I have some (ok, ok, several) building projects on the bench...
I am planning to do a complete collection of Bf-109 from A-Z versions........

Thanks to share!!

85
Aircraft Modeling / Re: Messerschmitt Bf109E
« on: July 11, 2012, 10:25:10 PM »
No.1,

Well done mate!!  :)

I haven't seen any WIP about Eduard's Bf-109E, I see a big problem with engine as you comment. This is one important point to model maker and aftermarket producer, they make many detail on scale and don't take care about all concept "In scale". So, plastic thickness is not the same as metal sheet............

But the point is, you make a very nice Bf-109E share it with us. I have this kit (ok, ok, I have Royal Class) and it will help me a lot when I built them!!

Thanks,  :-obey

86
Thank you again Gentlemen,

I appreciate your tip No.1, I will use it on the next chance that I have......

See you soon..

87
Gentlemen,

One important thing that I decided to do about air intakes, is getting a copy from Hasegawa kit. One of my best friends borrowed me his Airacobra to do it uncutting this part from sprue.
I make a mold with Smooth-On's Poyo Putty 40 (Tin Silicon), it is very useful and easy to handle. Then, copy was made with Smooth-Cast 300 (in 7 minutes I had my copy molded off.

Air intake part to copy........


Poyo Putty 40 trial kit

Mix ratio is 100A:6B by weight, A is white part and B is pink......

This silicon is not toxic, but I hate feel my hands oily. So, I used a vinyl gloves (not latex, because there's inhibition for sulfur compounds from it)

I measured correct mix ratio helping me with a scale......


Once, mixing start up. I had a pot life 5 minutes to get an even light pink color.....


Then, I press firmly this "putty" against plastic part. Taking care to fill out Air intakes and try to get a good mold with this technique!!

Well, I try leveling part's edge...


After 30 minutes, silicon is ready to be demolded....

Kit part is clean and undamaged!! (my friend is happy about it)


OK, I did my copy with a urethane resin (Smooth-Cast 300) with 3 minutes pot life, and 10 minutes to be demolded!! Mix ratio 1A:1B by volume

I filled out as you can see it!!

New resin part is out and is a good detailed copy from Hasegawa kit....(I saved money avoiding a expensive kit bashing)



Well, now I need to clean it up, then check fitting......

I hope post more soon........

Thanks, and all kind of comments are very welcome!!


88
Oooppsss!!

Yes, you are right!! My mind was thinking right, but my hands betrayed me!!

Thanks

89
Hello Gentlemen,

Very nice job Second Air Force, I have Eduard's I-16 kit and this will help me!!

I follow you in your WIP.


90
Dear No.1,

Thanks a lot, they will help me to analize all detail in better way. On second photo, outlined zigzag lines are interesting, I'll check Cutting Edge decal sheet to compare it.

Well, one more time, I appreciate your support.

Cheers from México

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