LetLetLet ~ Warplanes
Let Let Let - Warplanes => Aircraft Modeling => Topic started by: draken35 on November 18, 2014, 08:48:10 PM
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And here is it, the brand new Siemens Schuckert D.III from Eduard! Not a reboxing of the old one, but really a brand new one as I said.
Under a very nice box art, you will find two sprues of plastic parts. There are nicely moulded, very fine and the ribs effect on the wings is simply stunning. You have also a little photoetch sheet and a masks sheet. Decals are gorgeous, with a faded effect on the lozenges that I like very much!
Instruction manual is nicely done too, each phase being well explained. there is 5 decorations proposed. I've downloaded the one of the "plywood fuselage" on Eduard'site.
To complete that nice kit I will use the following brassin sets: machineguns (the box contains brassin MG but also photoetched ones) and engine. A set of "fabric" seatbelts is also available separately, but I will not use it, I prefer PE seatbelts...
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This is great set and I am sure it will be perfect build!!
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This looks so very good!
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I have begun to remove the parts from sprue. I'm working following the instructions phases. The kits seems to be very well conceived.
I always remove all the parts from sprue before painting. Just because I prefer to have some difficulties to master the painting of tiny elements than to paint on the sprue and after removing the parts to have to do corrections... Not so evident when you use washes and pastels...
Eduard provides two seats: first one is all plastic injected; second one is partially completed with a photoetched part; a prepainted one! I like the idea Eduard had to make the seat himself in plastic and the back of the seat in photoetch. The plastic part helps grandly for the glueing of the photoetch one. Well done!
So I will of course use the "improved" seat... The back of the seat was thus prepainted. During the manipulations some color was removed (see the arrow on the third photo). It's not a problem because I have the intention to repaint all the seat in wood color using oil paints; so the back would have been repainted anyway...
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The second look far better!
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nice start, the plastic-photo etched seat looks great !
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I have finished to remove all the parts from sprue.
In the meanwhile, brassin sets for engine and guns were washed.
The removing of the resin parts of the engine from the carrots asks for patience and attention. Take your time and there will be no problem.
The first 4 photos depicts the brassin engine in comparrison with the plastic parts included in the kit. Brassin is from far better, see the cylinders!
The brassin machineguns are also better than the ones of the kit, as you can see the next 3 photos.
One thing that is lacking in the kits of WWI aircrafts using PE for machineguns is a gabarit where you can roll the part... That's the best way to have well rolled elements. So I decided to create my own gabarit using one of the "full plastic" machinegun of the kit...
Next photo gives you an ideau of where I am in the building stage: not so far from start, but good work anyway.
...And, finally, I have a request: I'm still hesitating for the decoration between the "D" on the right part of the last photo, with blue fuselage, and the "E" on the left with wooden fuselage. I ask for your opinion to help me for my choice. Of course, if "E" is finally choosen, I will work with different bases for the different panels and oil paint...
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Parts are good in both versions but no doubt that Brassin rule! About the options- if the E present sample with wooden fuselage, I think this will be perfect for you. You are mastered work on natural surfaces, no matter skin or wood, so I think this will be perfect demonstration for you. Also I think that you have no much kits finished in natural wood so this can be nice fresh air in glass case ;)
It is on you off course :)
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Thank you for your opinion my friend.
Wood, would be great indeed ;)
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I agree the wood fuselage machine is an excellent choice, but the blue is also distinctive. Hard to decide (not so much for me since I'm not the builder!) but I think "E" would be great to see.
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OK friends, let's go for wood then ;)
Thank you!
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Now all the parts are sorted on a different way: by paint needed!
I've used masking tape to indicate the numbers of the parts and the paint needed.
I've also glued two of the elements of the engine. Be careful manipulating the brassin, I've broken a piston (Found later and glued in place) and the axe... Goog cyano have corrected the problem.
I've also rolled the manchons of the MG...
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Tiny resin parts are not always easy to remove from mold base :(
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Tiny resin parts are not always easy to remove from mold base :(
Yes,I fully agree...
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great progress mate
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Thank you mate! ;)
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White primer on some parts.
The propeller reveals an excess of plastic on two blades; sanding will be needed. The rest is perfectly OK...
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Salad :)) :)
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;)
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:-ok
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After a long week-end fully dedicated to martial arts, I'm back with that build...
I'm using Vallejo Wood as a base for painting plywood. Some parts are also painted in black.
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All wood day :))
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Yes...And day is complete now : I've applied Burnt Umber oil paint in quantity with a paintbrush, then after 1/4h I removed slowly the paint with synthetic spons, going always in the same direction. So doing the oil paint gives the effect of nerves in the wood, and you can have darker or lighter wood due to the fact you remove more or less oil paint...
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Effect is far better then any decals which imitating wood on market!!!
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Sure; and if you compare photos, you can see that using oil paint gives a better result than using the acrylic paint only...
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I think so but also note you are master of the modeling :))
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Thank you! :-red
Well, the oil paint is actually drying so I have worked on the brassin machineguns. Lots of details, and lots of little PE parts to glue... But those Spandaus are jewels!
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The wood effect is fantastic!
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Thank you Scott! ;)
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I love when I relax in chair, take my laptop and enjoy in masterpieces seen here :-flo
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Thank you my friend!
Little update: brassin machineguns are finished.
The propeller suffered of excess of plastic on two blades, so I've sanded those excess and removed all the primer.
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Excellent details!!!
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Yes, brassin is exceptional :)
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Work with metalic paints:
Brass from Agama
Silver from Rub 'n Buff
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All perfect!
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Thank you! ;)
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Beautiful project,and everything is so perfect! :-clap
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Thank you! ;)
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"My" plywood received Pébéo gloss varnish today. And I worked also with Rub 'n Buff...
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very nice !
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Thank you! ;)
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Work on the interior of the cockpit today. Parts are fitting very well. Minor corrections to do for paint...
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Cockpit come into absolute perfection!
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I can almost smell the wood!!
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Thank you! ;)
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Perfect! :-clap
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Thank you! ;)
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Well, well, well... Some problems encountered during that build, that I will detail here in different posts.
First, the way to place seatbelts.
Upper seatbelt (ventral) that is PE3 must be placed on part A70 of the kit. See the instruction sheet.
Problem is that it's impossible after having glued the parts of the interior of the cockpit (that is the previous phases in the instruction sheet).
So I've decided not to do that and simply to place the seatbelt on the seat...
After that, I placed the seat on the lower part of the fuselage.
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And now a photo on how to place that part... and how the result can be
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Last parts of the interior are placed and half fuselages glued together
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Another problem is the poor fitting of the fixed part of the rear As you can see on the photos, that is not really good and putty will be needed.
More than that I have the impression that the part is not symetric... I asked to my wife to verify and she agree with me. Fortunately the mobile part will attenuate the visual effect.
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Good solution for seat belts and very good progress!!!
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Little progress...
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Then, positioning the part in the fuselage, I constated I made a big mistake: the parts that comes above the fuselage must be placed early, at the time of assembly of the fuselage! I had to reopen the fuselage; to introduce that part and to glue the fuselage again...
To be said that many parts are not visible in "closed configuration", but are useful if you wish to build a Schuckert with all the panels open...
Take care also that the INTERIOR of the lower grid must be painted! I did not made that, but that will be visible as you can see. So, I painted with Rub 'n Buff...
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Thank you for the tips, this will be of great use for others :-ok
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Lot of putty needed today, and some little corrections remain to be done...
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Filler just in case or really needed?
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Filler just in case or really needed?
Needed...
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Correction : not enough putty there... I used Vallejo one.
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Nice progress!
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Nice progress! :-ok
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Thank you!
Well, sanding was "a long moment of solitude" as we say in French... :))
I have also studied following steps. Eduard lozenge decals are not accurate, I will develop that problem later.
And for what concerns rigging, I will not use photoetched parts Eduard proposes: look nice, but too tiny to manipulate during the rigging phase, andit's PE then it's... no volume.
i will work as I was working when I builded WWI fighters some times ago; so I've drilled holes in the lower wing.
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Interesting to note that problems with brand new kit...
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Interesting to note that problems with brand new kit...
Yes, for the lozenge I don't understand Eduard...
For the PE for haubaning, it's rather a good idea but that seems so difficult and even impossible to apply with my shaking hands...
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Eduard does sometimes have " funny " solutions even on the new kit's...... However your job is great !
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Thank you!
Not big progress today, but I've begun to mask the surfaces that will not be airbrushed with primer (for use of Rub 'n Buff later in the process)
I envisage also to use "EZ Line" for the first time for haubaning That product have the ability to be extensive, as you can see
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I like this EZ Line :)
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Well, I hope that results will be good with that product ;)
Anyway I have finished to mask the panels. Ready to paint now (after Xmas of course...)
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Primer was airbrushed today
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Smooth finish, nice to see that after all effort you did :)
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Thank you! :)
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Vallejo "Wood" airbrushed as base for my plywood rendering.
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...And then, Burnt Umber oil paint generously applied on the surfaces, than removed (loooong process...) with sponse.
Looks good to me... :))
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Excellent updates!
I agree with the concept of the PE for rigging. The look of the various clevises and terminal ends is very good from the profile view, but no thickness of the part is a drawback. I appreciate the effort to try and make the parts from metal, but one would have to machine them from aluminum or brass to get a prototypical shape. It's a hard problem for sure, especially in small scales! I am very interested in your use of EZ Line and may just try this also if you have success.
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Thank you Scott!
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looks great, a bit of suggestion if I may : the wood is better when it's made panel by panel - surface by surface one at the time, by this you'r avoiding the continues wooden pattern, you get a more natural look
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You're right...
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OK, the engine now. The one in the kit is simply... poor.
The one in brasin is gorgeous. But not easy to build at all, as I will show you in the next step (not the present one).
I have decided to build BOTH engine so I can show the difference.
First, I've paintbrushed Vallejo Oily Steel with a drop of Glossy Black. Then I've made a wash with Citadel Colors Brown ink on the cylinders.
Photo of the finished engines will follow in the next few days...
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Both engine build+lozenge article... this will be great article in the 2015!!!
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;)
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Both engines are finished.
Left: the brasin one; right: the one of the plastic kit.
2nd and 3rd photo: kit engine
4th and 5th photo: brasin engine.
As you can see, the brasin engine is very fine and looks from far (from a "different galaxy" as it seems to me!) better than the one of the kit.
I must honestly say that I find the kit engine poor and too basic. If you wish to realise a very fine Schuckert, you must buy the brasin one.
On the other hand, the brasin one is not easy to assemble. There are many PE parts to add and the resin is somewhat fragile for the little parts. I have broken some and fortunately repaired with a good cyano glue. I can recommend the brasin to the experienced modelers, but not to the beginners...
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...Another big problem with the kit is, as I said early, the lozenges: there are not correct.
I own some photos of the good colors (thanks to the brussels Air Museum) but have not found them actually :-red
Eons ago on a WWI forum, Doug Baumann offered for free drawings of lozenges that are from far better than Eduard ones. So I printed those lozenges on clear decal sheets. Eduard decals will often be useful to serve as gabarits...
First steps: under the Eduard lozenges are the ones Doug realised. Than I use Eduard decals to cut my own decals at the good shape. I've begun with the ailerons; photo depicts the lower lozenges that are placed with the use of MicroSol...
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Excellent results on the engine project. The Brassin engine is definitely the best way here!!
The lozenge colors are so different!
Incidentally, not really part of our conversation here, but I was watching an episode of Rat Patrol, a U.S. television series from my childhood and the Germans had pyramidal tents that were made of lozenge pattern material.....very similar to this!
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here we go woth the lozenges... As you said, Scott, there is a big difference between the one I use and those of Eduard... It was very time consuming because I had to place lozenge in band and then to cut the surplus with a razor blade (and still have ten fingers...)
...And work is not finished yet! I have to make lot of minor corrections (my lozenge are frangile) and, for the ribs, I have to print lozenge bands on white decal sheet: the ones I have printed on clear decal sheet are translucid and that gives bad result placed to the "base" lozenges"...
I have also worked a little bit on the propeller (oil paint: burnt sienna) and airbrushed the brassin machineguns with gun metal.
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Delicate work, and all fingers still attached!!
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You really made it great!!!!
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Thank you! Lot of work still waiting...
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The application of lozenges is a long work to do... Actual progress is shown here.
To be noted that the ribs surrounded the wings/ailerons; so there were of the same colors and not "upper lozenge" on upper surfaces, and "lower lozenges" on lower surfaces... That's why I made "upper lozenges" ribs on the lower surfaces!
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Complicated... and great :-ok
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Thank you! ;)
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very nice work my friend, very nice !
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Thank you my friend! ;)
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Work continues for what concerns the placement of ribs... And it's not finished yet!
To be honnest, I must say here that I have made a big mistake: a fellow modeler who is a great specialist of WWI aircrafts confirmed me that ribs on lower surfaces are made with lower surface lozenges!
But I will not correct this: too much work to remove the ribs without damaging the lozenges...
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Stay as it is :) And I am wonder how this info about rib tape was found?
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Stay as it is :) And I am wonder how this info about rib tape was found?
Well, the bad info was due to a misunderstanding I had as it seems...
Good one comes from a friend that worked at the Brussels Air Museum for restoration of old planes
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OK, decalsetting phase finished...
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...Then masks are removed, a minor correction made on starboard side and Rub 'n Buff used. Tyres are also painted.
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Some progress...
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:-clap :-clap :-clap
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Thank you my friend! ;)
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Good work! :-clap :-clap :-clap :-clap
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This is getting better and better every second, well done mate !
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Lovely :) :-ok
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Thank you!
I've begun the haubaning phase...
...Will take some time. I have to be relax, zen... Jack helped me a little bit today (Jack Daniels of course...)
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Jack is man best friend ;)
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Sure! ;)
Second sitting today (without Jack...)
EZ Line is a very good product. Not easy to introduce in tiny holes (no rigidity) but once it's placed, it's really great you can bend it without having the glued extremity that leaves its place...
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All right, will put EZ Line on list to order one day
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Definitely EZ Line is on my must have list. Great progress mate !
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Thank you! ;)
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Finished...
I've first placed the upper wing, then the wheel legs and wheels and finally the propeller.
Well, it's a nice little kit. The only negative points are:
- the lozenge decals (false)
- the injected engine
Brassin sets are a must as also other lozenge decals.
And for haubaning, EZ Line is definitively an excellent product!
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You give your best mate :-clap :-clap
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thank you! ;)
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superb work mate !
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Thank you mate!
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Excellent work! :-clap :-clap :-clap
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Review is published here :)
http://www.letletlet-warplanes.com/2015/01/25/siemens-schuckert-d-iii-eduard-148/