HOW TO: Natural Metal Finishes

[No.1]

Thank you mate I hope that I will soon have one plastic kit where I will demonstrate my way of metal finishes and add it to this subject.

[Second Air Force]

Letipapa,

Here is a completed model (Horace Carswell's B-24J) that I used foil, Testors Metalizer, and Alclad on.

HOW TO: Natural Metal Finishes

HOW TO: Natural Metal Finishes

The largest portion of the model is BareMetal Foil. The variation in panel shading is done by applying the foil with the grain in different directions. The vertical fins and many of the other compound curves are done with the spray-on products, using different shades for the variation. For example, the cowlings are entirely Testors Aluminum Plate but the nacelles are a combination of foil and paint. The wing trailing edge panels are also primariy painted on.

Scott

[No.1]

Scott- did you ever take a part in any model competition with this nice build metal kits? They are fascinating looking

[Second Air Force]

I actually built that B-24 for part of a group project for the IPMS Nationals in Dallas, Texas a number of years ago. Our group built models of aircraft in which crewmen earned the Medal Of Honor. I've shown some of my airplane models over the years, including the vacuform F-89. The funny thing about the F-89 was that I finished it just before Monogram/Revell released their 1/48th Scorpion kit!

I used to show superdetailed NASCAR stock car models on a national level back in the 1990s but I've retired from that side of the hobby and come back to aircraft modeling in the past seven or eight years.

HOW TO: Natural Metal Finishes

Unfortunately I never get much modeling done!

Scott

[No.1]

Windshield frame done in metal foil or SNJ? It look very realistic

[Jicehem]

Hi mates, 

Years ago I used Rub n'Buff but I find it's too white. Before Rub n'Buff I used Abt's aluminium powder, a french product which was issued in the late 1960s. This system was re-issued by SNJ...
Nowadays I simply use Humbrol's Metalcoat Polished Aluminium that I handbrush. After 30 minutes of drying I polish Metalcoat with Abt or SBJ aluminium powder. The rendering is amazing.







Cheers,

Jicehem   

[Second Air Force]

No.1, the windshield frame is part of the chrome tree on the Monogram convertible kit, so I can't take credit for that one!

Jicehem, that is beautiful. It's also exactly why I started this thread, so I could learn something!!! I thought that SNJ was originally a European invention and you confirmed my belief. That really seems to work great.

Scott

[Second Air Force]

Another edition, this time from the Y1B-17 project:

More filing, filling, sanding, and priming brought out some more low and high spots on what I thought was a smooth surface.

HOW TO: Natural Metal Finishes

Another coat of primer and some block sanding, and this was the result, better but the flaws will still show up badly with NMF:

HOW TO: Natural Metal Finishes

Finally got a smooth contour on both sides of the forward fuselage on the fourth attempt. After cleaning up the window openings, scribing all the panel lines, and working on the interior these two halves will be ready to attach to the center section:

HOW TO: Natural Metal Finishes

I use a bit of "bad" foil to verify that all the flaws are no longer visible. This piece has been applied to several areas, accounting for the rough look of the surface. I use it as a guide to see that all my dimples and high spots are gone, or they'll show up on the finished product.

HOW TO: Natural Metal Finishes

Scott

[Jicehem]

Hi mates,

Unfotunately, SNJ powders seem to not more exist...
Another rendering of polishing Metalcoat Polished Aluminium. You can also polish the Matt Aluminium for which the rendering will be less brillant.

http://www.letletlet-warplanes.com/forum/makete-aviona-aircraft-modeling/f-100d-super-sabre-1314/

The following link shows my very beginning in NMF which consisted in Testor's spray aluminium lightly polished with aluminium powder :

http://www.letletlet-warplanes.com/forum/makete-aviona-aircraft-modeling/f-100d-super-sabre/

Cheers,

Jicehem

[Letipapa]

Scott, that Horace Carswell's B-24J is amazing Impressive work; different shining of panels, wonderfull

Jicehem, metal glow on your Mirage has one special elegant, little dark tone. Very serious, remarkable.

Thank you both for sharing your experiences.

[No.1]

I have finally get one kit for the metal finish and I will place this part of build here

[Letipapa]

Great No1

[No.1]

Lets continue with standard way of the metal surface finishing with some of the tips. In one of my last post in this thread I have said that I will use one Spitfire for the demo but in meantime I get one amazing kit of the Zlin aerobatic plane and as well it is made in shiny metal, I have decided to use this one.

Our friend Second Air Force have noted that smooth and clear surface is of the ultimate importance when going to do project like this. Metallic color have different properties then the other so if any error are present on surface, with metallic top coat, this error will be much focused. So first thing is to prepare surface.

First three images present assembly section of the Zlin kit, this is fuselage with wings ad the engine cowling. What you will definitely note is the gaps on some area and this will be problem. My approach to the filling of this area is specific and for the first coat I use liquid filler. We all know Gunze Sangyo and its excellent product Mr. Surfacer. For this operation I use 500 grit sample and apply it with hand brush all over the join lines of the kit as well some possible problematical areas. Question is- why liquid filler first?

Reason lay in the physical nature of the surfaces. You have to note that all gaps are small. Second thing is that there could also invisible layer of the dust. If you apply regular filler there, it is possible that dust will avoid the filler to contact with surface and this will result in weak surface cover and it will crack later during sanding. Even if you clean up with some fluid this area and make it clean before filler, you will have situation that filler will trap the micro balloons of air underneath and this will also cause problem during later sanding.

Best approach is to first apply liquid filler and it will goes into smallest holes and after it dry, you will make with easy regular filler coat and this will make perfect filler coat over the surface. My choice for filler is the Tamya... I am sure that many of you know for it.

The fourth image show the kit with coat of the liquid filler. After that I have add regular filler and sand it to the perfect possible shape. Is it perfect, this will be find in following step.

Next step is the spray of the liquid filler. I like to use spray can with Gunze Surfacer 1200 and I have coat all of the surface of the kit. Principal designation of this type of filler is to find all surface irregularity, cover all scratches and make good base for later painting.

Will be continued...

[samuraj77]

Very usefull topic lads

[Letipapa]

Absolutely!